The information provided below is as per Benjamin Moore
Often occurring with the use of flat paint, burnishing is typically seen in high-traffic areas that require frequent cleaning, such family rooms, hallways, stairs and doors.
Common causes of burnishing or marring include:
Here are some solutions to help you prevent this problem on job sites or in your own home:
How to Identify, Prevent and Fix Surfactant Leaching
Despite its name and appearance, surfactant leaching is an aesthetic concern and is not harmful to the paint or the surface it is on.
Surfactants are necessary ingredients of latex paint. These water-soluble components migrate over time to the surface of the paint. When newly applied latex paint is exposed to high moisture or humidity while it’s drying and/or curing, the surfactants can rise prematurely to the film’s surface, producing a residue or splotches. This residue can be sticky, discolored, glossy or soapy in appearance. Surfactant leaching frequently shows up in bathrooms and other humid environments on ceilings or walls. While unattractive, surfactant leaching does not harm the coating.
When newly applied exterior latex paint is exposed to high moisture or humidity while drying, the rising surfactants can produce stains. Also known as weeping, these stains can appear as an oily or sticky sap-like substance. It is important to note that the discoloration from surfactant leaching is not the same as water stains or spots and should not be treated as such.
Paint blocking occurs when two freshly painted, uncured surfaces bond when pressed against each other, frequently in settings such as a door sticking to the jamb or windows sticking to the sill. When separated, the surfaces show paint transfer or peeling.
Mildew: Black, grey, or brown spots or areas found
on the paint film or caulk bead.
Possible Cause:
• Forms mostly on areas that tend to stay
damp, and receive little or no direct Sun
light. Walls with a northerly exposure and
the underside of eaves are particularly
vulnerable to mildew growth.
• Painting over a substrate or coating on
which the mildew has not been properly
destroyed.
• Use of a paint which has an insufficient
amount of mildewcide.
Remedies: Test for mildew by applying a few drops
of household bleach to the discolored area; if the
stain lightens in color or disappears, it is mildew.
Remove all mildew from the surface by scrubbing
with a diluted household bleach solution (one part
bleach, three parts water); wear rubber gloves and
eye protection. Power washing is also an option.
Rinse thoroughly with clean water, prime any bare
wood, and then apply one or two coats of high-
quality exterior paint, which typically contains the
correct amount of mildewcide.
cracking/flaking
Cracking/Flaking: The splitting of a dry paint
film through at least one coat, which will lead to
complete failure of the paint. Early on, the problem
appears as hairline cracks; later, flaking of paint
chips OCCurs.
Possible Cause:
• Older substrates with multiple layers of paint.
• Overthinning the paint or spreading it too thin.
• Poor Surface preparation, ie. when the paint
is applied to bare wood without priming.
• Painting under cool or windy conditions
that make latex paint dry too fast.
• Use of a paint that has inadequate
adhesion and flexibility.
Remedies:
• It may be possible to correct cracking that
does not go down to the substrate by removing the loose or flaking paint with a scraper or wire brush, sanding to feather
the edges, repainting.
• If the cracking goes down to the substrate,
remove all of the affected area by scraping
and sanding, then prime and repaint with a
quality latex exterior paint.
WARNING: If you scrape, sand or remove old paint. you may release lead dust. LEAD IS TOXIC. EXPOSURE TO LEAD DUST CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ILLNESS, SUCH AS BRAIN DAMAGE, ESPECIALLY IN CHILDREN. PREGNANT WOMEN SHOULD ALSO AVOID EXPOSURE
Mildew: Black, grey, or brown spots or areas found
on the paint film or caulk bead.
Possible Cause:
• Forms mostly on areas that tend to stay
damp, and receive little or no direct Sun
light. Walls with a northerly exposure and
the underside of eaves are particularly
vulnerable to mildew growth.
• Painting over a substrate or coating on
which the mildew has not been properly
destroyed.
• Use of a paint which has an insufficient
amount of mildewcide.
Remedies: Test for mildew by applying a few drops
of household bleach to the discoloured area; if the
stain lightens in color or disappears, it is mildew.
Remove all mildew from the surface by scrubbing
with a diluted household bleach solution (one part
bleach, three parts water); wear rubber gloves and
eye protection. Power washing is also an option.
Rinse thoroughly with clean water, prime any bare
wood, and then apply one or two coats of high-
quality exterior paint, which typically contains the
correct amount of mildewcide.
lapping
Lapping: Appearance of a denser colour or higher
gloss where wet and dry layers overlap during
paint application.
Possible Cause:
• Failure to maintain a "wet edge" when
applying paint.
• Failure to use a primer over a porous surface.
Remedies: When painting, maintain a wet edge
by applying the paint starting from the unpainted
area and going back into the just-painted area. This
technigue (brushing from "dry to wet", rather than
vice versa) will help produce a smooth, uniform
appearance. It is also wise to work in manageable-
size areas; plan for job interruptions at natural breaks,
such as a window, door or corner. This is especially
important when applying stain to bare wood. If the
substrate is very porous, a primer/sealer should be
used to provide an optimal surface that will prevent
the topcoat from drying too quickly and reducing the
wet edge time. Alkyd paints generally have superior
wet edge properties.
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